Admit it—you love watching other people. We all do; it’s an extension of our endless fascination with ourselves. We just can’t get enough eye candy. Why else would reality TV and You Tube exist?
TV and the Internet aside, the best kind of people watching happens live and in person. Whether you prefer to criticize others’ fashion choices, speculate about their lives or marvel at their mojo, people watching is always an entertaining pastime. To help you indulge your optical sweet tooth, I’m happy to share with you some of the best places to check out the endless array of characters that march through our City Different. From colorful locals to undercover celebrities, the town is yours to watch, baby! So slide on a pair of dark sunglasses and park yourself at one of the following prime locations, organized by type.
Cafés and Bars
There’s no shortage of either one in Santa Fe. Just order an espresso or a beer and you can people watch until your eyes water. Here are some of the best hangouts to see and, if you’re in the mood, be seen.
Del Charro. Located at the busy corner of Don Gaspar and Alameda, this bar is primo people watching territory. Sit at a table by one of the floor-to-ceiling windows (open in summer), and watch the Harleys rumble past outside while the after-work crowd whoops it up inside. 101 W. Alameda St., 505-982-4333.
Downtown Subscription. This Garcia Street favorite is a hangout for artsy types. A feast for your ears as well as your eyes, you might overhear a screenwriter hashing out a film deal or a painter discussing her latest show. You can even pretend to be reading a magazine from their bountiful selection while you eavesdrop. 376 Garcia St., 505-983-3085.
El Tesoro Café. Located in the heart of the upscale Sanbusco Center, this café’s tables provide front-row seating for watching chi-chi shoppers walking their Pomeranians or emerging from Wink salon with shiny new hairdos. You might even see a celeb—Gene Hackman held the door to the mall for me once as I was going in. 500 Montezuma Ave #104, 505-988-3886.
Santa Fe Baking Company. You won’t find a better spot to get an eyeful of every stratum of Santa Fe life, from homeless ex-cowboys to casually dressed celebrities. (Spotted: Jane Fonda, Billy Bob Thornton, Val Kilmer, Gene Hackman). Pick a window seat, and you’ll have a panoramic view of the scene inside and on the patio. 504 W. Cordova Road, 505-988-4292.
Starbucks downtown. I know I’m plugging a national chain, but the San Francisco Street Starbucks has a local, comfortable feel—as well as having a great streetside picture window. I’ve whiled away many an hour sitting at that window, marveling at unfathomable fashion choices or pondering what makes two people choose each other. 106 W. San Francisco St., 505-992-2858.
WilLee’s. This bar/blues club, besides being one of the few places to go dancing in Santa Fe, packs in a crowd nearly every night. Whether you belly up to the bar or lounge in the backyard patio, you’ll never be bored with the ever-shifting kaleidoscope of people sporting every style from Southwestern chic to East Village funk—not to mention showcasing various states of drunken abandon. 401 S. Guadalupe St., 505-982-0117.
Outdoor Patios
Now that warmer weather is on the horizon, locals are crawling out of winter seclusion, and Santa Fe will soon be deluged with eager turistas, it’s high season for the many restaurants and cafés that boast oudoor patios. Here are some of the best choices for a little fresh-air voyeurism.
Bistro 315. Located at the heart of historic Santa Fe near the oldest church in the U.S., this casually elegant patio provides an intimate setting from which to view a steady stream of tourists from all over the world. 315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-986-9190.
The Cowgirl. The large, heated patio gently shaded by cottonwoods, live music, and constant stream of tattooed, pierced locals make this bar and grill a must for intriguing (and sometimes puzzling) people watching. 319 S. Guadalupe St., 505-982-2565.
Coyote Café. The restaurant’s rooftop cantina is a favorite summer spot for locals and tourists alike. Sit at the bar along the edge and peer over the wall to spy on unsuspecting passers-by with eagle-like arrogance. 132 W. Water St., 505-983-1615.
El Farol. This timeless Santa Fe restaurant and bar has great outdoor seating right on Canyon Road, with a long view of ambling visitors and jogging locals. You might even see a celeb: While seated here, I once spotted Val Kilmer sauntering down Canyon with an unidentified female companion. 808 Canyon Rd., 505-983-9912.
Hotel St. Francis. This downtown hotel highlights a patio tailored perfectly for people watching. Its wrought-iron chairs and tables are conveniently situated facing the street, begging you to goggle at the passers-by. There’s table service from the bar, so you can even nosh on nachos and sip martinis while you stare. 210 Don Gaspar, 505-992-6300.
Ore House Restaurant. Indulge in a margarita (and free chips and salsa at Happy Hour) while enjoying a bird’s eye view of the endless parade of tourists through the Santa Fe Plaza. The patio is open year-round and heated in cooler months, so don’t let the temperature deter you. 50 Lincoln Ave., 505-983-8687.
Malls
Indoor shopping malls provide ideal climate-controlled, all-day people watching. Of course, optimum times are weekend afternoons. Find a convenient bench and prepare to be astonished by outfits, amazed by attitudes, and fascinated by family dynamics.
DeVargas Mall. A strange mixture of high-end and lowbrow, this relaxed downtown mall has lots of comfy places to sit and marvel—and a Starbucks for even more ogling opportunities.
Sanbusco Center. The Guadalupe District’s answer to indoor shopping offers plenty of upscale visitors (including canines) and a Border’s with a café.
Santa Fe Place. Formerly Villa Linda Mall, it’s the closest Santa Fe gets to a mainstream shopping mall, complete with national chains, teeny-boppers hanging out at the food court, and kids riding the indoor carousel.
Public Venues
Summer or winter, these spots provide excellent fodder for the characters in your next novel or subjects for those soul-searching photos you plan to exhibit.
Santa Fe Plaza. If you’re one of the many locals who shun the Plaza as a tourist destination, you’re missing out on some of the most consistent people watching in town—from the Indians selling their wares at the Palace of the Governors to teens playing hackey sack to picture-snapping turistas. Time it right, and you can also listen to a concert, stroll through art booths, or view the annual ice sculpture display.
Santa Fe Farmers Market. Every Saturday morning, locals stream to the Farmers Market to stock up on fresh greens and lavender soap. Grab a shopping bag and join the fray. Pretend to study the prize beets while surreptitiously sizing up the unlikely combination of country and city folk. It’s slated to be in its new Railyard venue this spring. In the meantime, winter market is held indoors at 519 Cerrillos Rd. 505-983-4098.
Tesuque Pueblo Flea Market. Open Friday–Sunday March through December, the “Flea” is not only a fun place to pick through semi-precious stones and gawp at African masks, but an excellent people watching venue. Have a seat and some lemonade at one of the food stands and enjoy a leisurely afternoon of gazing at sunburned tourists and bargain-hunting locals. Don’t forget your shade hat! Hwy. 84/285 near the Opera. 505-670-2599.
