Eldorado Court buffet has gourmet offerings but knows how to avoid overdoing it.
Brunch is a lazy day meal, a feast that takes the place of both breakfast and lunch enjoyed, perhaps, with a glass of champagne and a cozy nap afterwards. In Santa Fe, one of the oldest brunch traditions is downtown at the Eldorado Hotel.
In general, I’m not big on brunch buffets. The food tends to be mediocre, perhaps because the choices have been waiting too long. The variety of options makes it difficult not to overindulge. But none of this holds true at the Eldorado Court. Their buffet brunch made a fan out of me. This a nicely presented select assortment of eggs, pastries, meats and desserts offers more than enough to satisfy without overdoing it. The price recently dropped from $24 to $18, including juice, coffee and/or hot tea ($15 for seniors and children). If you want champagne, a mimosa or a bloody mary, that’s extra, but easily available.
The Eldorado Court is the hotel’s more casual dining area adjoining the lounge. The other dining room, The Old House, is better-known, more elegant and expensive. “Casual” is relative, however. The room is beautifully decorated in muted Southwestern colors with huge paintings of cactus and a whimsical wooden mountain lion positioned to guard the prime rib carving station. Service was equally upscale, from the warm greeting by the hostess to the efficient friendliness of our waiter as he refilled coffee and water and removed used dishes. However, because it was a buffet, we were surprised to find a 20 percent service charge automatically added to our bill for four.
When you eat here, come hungry. Choices include made-to-order items at the chef’s station. The waffles called out to me first. I watched the young chef pour the batter into the round waffle maker, saw the timer click down, and enjoyed mine with fresh blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and a spoonful of whipped cream that melted from the heat. It was light, slightly sweet, and appropriately decadent. The same cook who supervises the waffle iron carves the prime rib, first-rate beef. Along with the juicy meat you can help yourself to mild horseradish sauce or fresh au jus and fresh rolls for a sandwich.
Individually made omelets, crafted over a two-burner stove, are popular. Diners select their ingredients from a beautiful assortment of fresh additions displayed. Besides the usual onions, peppers, mushrooms and cheese, this omelet bar includes crab, shrimp and smoked salmon. Speaking of seafood, another option at the buffet is lox and bagels, with a variety of flavors of bread, a big toaster, cream cheese, capers and onions and a beautiful pile of thinly sliced fish.
Enough protein? The fresh pastries look fabulous, both the breakfast goodies and those available as dessert. I tried a lovely Danish, sweetened with an apricot and a light cheese filling. The spread included beautiful mini-Bundt cakes and chocolate croissants. If you want fruit, the Eldorado serves pineapple, honeydew and cantaloupe slices, as well as the berries on the waffle table and orange juice. A tray with several kinds of cheese, dried apricots and salted nuts provided nice variety but I would have welcomed a green salad, too.
In the hot department, my friends enjoyed the eggs Benedict. The chafing dish section also included bacon and sausage, garlic mashed potatoes and sliced turkey with green beans. A covered tray of hot, tender bread pudding with warm white frostinglike sauce set next to the rest of the dessert section, I selected something that looked like half of a chocolate tennis ball. It was a truffle, fabulously moist with a serious rich chocolate flavor. The vanilla mousse looked like a tulip with the thin slices of fresh strawberry arranged around the soft white center like petals on the flower. Lemon tart and a chocolate cupcake were other choices. I’d recommend this brunch for a special hungry Sunday.
For Easter Sunday, the Eldorado will feature a much-expanded brunch, including complimentary champagne. The price is $48 for adults and reservations are essential. Santa Fe offers a variety of other choices for Easter brunch including Sunrise Springs, Bishop’s Lodge, La Posada, The Compound, The Inn and Spa at Loretto, Santacafe, Hotel St. Francis, Amavi, Osteria d’Assisi and La Casa Sena.
Eldorado Court Sunday buffet
Eldorado Hotel & Spa
WHERE: 309 W. San Francisco, Santa Fe, (800) 955-4455, (505) 988-4455
HOURS: Sunday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. (Buffet opens earlier with breakfast-only items.)
FOOD: Buffet with breakfast and lunch treats. Full bar.
SERVICE: Good
PRICE: $18 (Plus a 20 percent service charge)
ATMOSPHERE: Spacious, wellappointed hotel dining room.
