JEMEZ SPRINGS— The spring thaw is quickly melting snow and drying trails in the lower elevations of the Jemez Mountains, and now is the ideal time to visit the area's hot springs, ahead of the summer-time crush of bathers.
The dormant volcanoes that created what is now the caldera for which the Valles Caldera National Preserve is named still heat underground water that bubbles to the Earth's surface in at least three locations.
The best known— and the most crowded— is Spence Springs, just north of Jemez Springs near the Battleship Rock Picnic Area.
Spence's small pools are surrounded by natural rock and are only slightly modified— with a plastic pipe added and a few holes stopped up. The water is comfortably hot at 102 degrees or so, and the setting, a rocky outcropping nestled in a forest of pine above the Jemez River, is worth the short hike.
Don't expect much privacy at Spence, however. Already, the springs are luring a steady stream of afternoon visitors, even in the middle of the week. On summer weekends, crowds can number close to 50 at one time. The worst of the crowds can be avoided by visiting early on weekdays, especially for the next month or so.
Less crowded is McCauley Warm Springs— not least because it's a two-mile hike from both Battleship Rock and the Jemez Falls Campground a few miles farther north.
The Jemez Falls Campground trail head is still under a couple of feet of snow. But the hike from Battleship is already mostly dry, with only a few easily avoided muddy spots.
McCauley is a three-tiered spring that also boasts a beautiful setting. Keep in mind that the water temperature is about 95 degrees here, so it won't feel like a Jacuzzi.
If it's a sunny Saturday afternoon and you really want a hot spring to yourself, bring along the cross country skis and make the 10-mile round-trip trek to San Antonio Springs. Forest Road 376 is still gated and covered with snow, but the 105-degree pool at the end will make the trek worthwhile.
McCauley Spring— parents take note— is listed on several Web sites as "clothing optional." While the Forest Service's Web site notes that "nudity is a violation of state law and you can be cited," there are no notices prohibiting nudity at the Battleship trail head or at the spring. There is a large sign at the trail head to Spence warning visitors that nudity is prohibited, but the Forest Service Web site says nudity is still "very common" there.
All the hot springs are day use only. Camping and campfires are prohibited.
Getting There
The Jemez Springs-area hot springs are less than two hours from Santa Fe. Take U.S. 84 north to Pojoaque and head east on N.M. 502 through Los Alamos to N.M. 4. Turn right toward the Jemez Mountains and follow the N.M. 4 through the Valles Caldera National Preserve to N.M. 126.
From there, if you're headed for San Antonio Springs, turn right onto 126 and go 3.5 miles west to Forest Road 376.
To get to Spence and McCauley Springs, continue south from the N.M. 126 junction on N.M. 4 to the Battleship Rock Picnic Area. The picnic area is still closed for the winter, but parking for the trail heads is open just above it.
