Heating It Up: Pranzo Italian Grill - SantaFe.com
Beet and blue cheese salad at Pranzo Italian Grill

Happy first anniversary to Pranzo Italian Grill. OK, some of you will be saying, “Hey, don’t I remember Pranzo from the ‘80s, or ‘90s, or 2000s?” Well, that would be right, too. Founded in 1987, the original Pranzo had a long and beloved run in Sanbusco Center, now home to the New Mexico School for the Arts. Pranzo went on hiatus for a handful of years while Chef Steven Lemon and his wife, Sarah, looked for a new location that again would allow them to offer well-priced “casual fine dining.” The reincarnation of the restaurant came in August 2021, in the adobe on Johnson Street at Guadalupe that housed Shohko Café for many years. Exterior of Pranzo Italian Grill

“PHOENIX” RISING

When the Shohko folks called it quits, the Lemons knew they’d found the spot to bring back their baby. The old building was in sore need of a utilities upgrade but also went through quite an interior transformation. There are now multiple sleek dining rooms, private dining space, and a handsome bar in the center of it all. This time of year, diners can opt for the new patio, surrounded by planters full of vegetables. Beyond the patio, there’s parking for at least a dozen cars, a welcome amenity in this downtown area. While plenty of visitors to Santa Fe find their way here, Pranzo really serves the local community. Prices are easy enough to attract families, too.

ON THE MENU

Pranzo's porcini pizza with a side of porcini mushrooms.
Pranzo’s porcini pizza with a side of porcini mushrooms.

When dining here with a group of friends, I like starting with the fritto misto. It includes several types of lightly battered and fried seafood served with both a piquant arrabbiata sauce and lemony aioli. The charcuterie platter, which includes some house-made pickles and spreads, works well for sharing, too. Theoretically, one could also share the beautiful thin-sliced pear antipasto, accompanied by a ball of velvety burrata, pear brodo, and fried almonds, but I keep this one for myself. As the weather cools down, try a big bowl of sous chef Eleazar’s vegetable soup, a hearty minestrone with a scoop of polenta smack in the center.

The core of the Pranzo menu is pizza and pasta. In each case, diners will find expected combos, but there are always seasonal options to consider. Just last week, I enjoyed a pie topped with mountain porcini mushrooms, along with ribbons of tender zucchini, mozzarella, and garlic puree. I’m a fan of the norteño, with pepperoni and roasted jalapeños. With the pastas, I often return to the linguine with clams, or pillowy ravioli, filled with spinach and ricotta, afloat in sage-scented cream.

Entrees roam broadly. Eggplant Parmesan’s a classic fave, as is the San Francisco seafood stew, cioppino, properly enriched with tomatoes and vino. Creamy white beans accompany the long-simmered lamb shank, and a seared ribeye gets a drizzle of balsamic reduction and gnudi on the side.

Along with a well-priced wine list, there are craft beers and a full cocktail list. Try one of the Negroni variations, such as the Shoko with Roku Japanese gin, paying homage to the building’s longtime tenant, or the cleverly named Chef Lemon Drop. During the daily 4 to 6 p.m. happy hour, $2 is knocked off all beer, wine, spirits, antipasto, and pizza, a great deal.

Eleazor's vegetable soup with polenta at Pranzo Italian Grill.
Eleazor’s vegetable soup with polenta at Pranzo Italian Grill.

GIVING BACK

I’m one of the people who remembers Pranzo from its original nascent days. Early in its tenure, Chef Steven was hired to run the kitchen. One of my strongest memories from back then is the Christmas parties Pranzo hosted for many years for “Bigs” and “Littles” participating in Big Brothers Big Sisters of Northern New Mexico. Not only did everyone get a Pranzo lunch and a present from Santa, but then all of the many “Littles” made pizzas with Chef Steven. Every beaming kid got to take home their pizza for a later meal. The BBBS organization eventually outgrew the size of the restaurant, but Steven’s still involved with them all of these years later. That’s pretty swell, as is knowing the chef was able to purchase the restaurant in which he came of age.

Happy anniversary!

Pranzo Italian Grill
321 Johnson at Guadalupe
Santa Fe
505-984-2645

Reservations are also on opentable.com

Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Cheryl Alters JamisonStory and photos by Cheryl Alters Jamison

Four-time James Beard Foundation Book Award-winning author Cheryl Alters Jamison is the host of Heating It Up on KTRC and is now the “queen of culinary content” for SantaFe.com. Find new stories about the Santa Fe food scene each week on SantaFe.com.

Read Cheryl Alters Jamison’s bio here!
This article was posted by Jesse Williams

Please Share!

Celebrating Father’s Day in Santa Fe
Dad with daughter and blue balloon - Adobe Stock Image

What do you have planned for your Father’s Day weekend in Santa Fe? While it is traditionally considered a weekend for Dad to fire up the grill, how about taking him out for some family fun and a meal out instead? And if you haven’t grabbed the perfect gift for the dads in your life, we have some great shopping ideas, too. Adventures for Father’s Day Let’s plan around the main event: what to do with dear ol’ Dad? One … Read More

Tesuque Village Market: Heating It Up
Pizza at Tesuque Village Market.

You have to love a place that feels like a destination but takes just minutes to reach from the heart of Santa Fe. The popular Tesuque Village Market is one of those spots. It sits on a corner in what the locals call greater downtown Tesuque, where the only other businesses are a gallery and another restaurant. The market’s a rustic charmer, a bright and funky mix of Southwestern and Mexican style, that feels like a little vacation break. You … Read More

Albóndigas: A Classic New Mexican Comfort Food
Sopa de Albondigas in a bowl.

Albóndigas: We’re talking meatballs! From Morocco’s kefta and Turkey’s köfte, to Germany’s Königsberger klopse, meatballs are beloved around the globe. The version called albóndigas went anywhere in the world colonized by the Spanish. Like just about every other dish that came to New Mexico from elsewhere, cooks here made it their own. A BOWL OF CLASSIC COMFORT Spooning into a bowl of albóndigas can feel like a warm hug, and make even a lousy day look a little brighter. In … Read More

Featured Restaurants